In Germany he is known as „Rübezahl“. And there are around 999 stairs to climb until you reach the Rübezahl-platform with a view all over the mountain and maybe you see Prague somewhere in the far distance.

Once you’ve passed the guardian, you find yourself in a puzzling maze of hills, rocks, and forests, wandering through gorges and snow, up ice-encrusted stairs, along rock crevices, and down into deeep holes… sweet lord Jesus… it’s an adventure.

Finally, the scary staircase hewn into the rock rises directly before you. At the other end, you face another gigantic guardian and the massive granite throne, truly worthy of the king of the Bohemian mountains, valleys, rivers, and forests.

Getting there… cycle south from Berlin to Dresden, along the river, cross the border and turn left in Decin.

It’s a magnificent ride along the mountain. On the second day, you might be treated to a perfect view, like out of a Prussian field marshal’s day, overlooking his battlefields of Skalitz. Cross the border into Poland opposite Nachod. Follow Route 387 – it’s ideal for cycling… wow!

The mountain is called Szczeliniec Wielki, and yes, you can find accommodation, coffee, food, and souvenirs there. The next day, you take the train from Wrocław back to Berlin.